Bullfights and Catcalls

Last week, I wrote an entry about cultural differences between the U.S. and Spain. At the end, I wrote that I was trying to be more culturally sensitive and would no longer complain about cultural differences. However, what happens if an aspect of a cultural is not just different than your own, it goes against something you fundamentally believe in? This week, I have been battling with that question. This past weekend, I went to a bullfight. I hated it. That same weekend, I also had several run-ins with creepy and rude Spanish men. Both of these situations made me uncomfortable on a deep level- past simply discomfort of the unknown, into an area where I felt what was happening was morally wrong. 

The Bullfight 

A few weeks ago in our orientation class, one of my teachers mentioned that the last time to see a bullfight in Seville was at the end of September. She said that although we might not like it, it is an important part of the culture and urged us all to go. My friends and I decided to take advantage of this cultural opportunity and bought tickets. I knew what a bullfight was and I didn't love the idea, but I figured that I would appreciate the tradition and be culturally sensitive enough to understand it. Wrong. So wrong. Let me explain to you how a bullfight works. If you actually want to know all the techinical terms and reasons behind everything, read the wikipedia article. This is the Eden version of a bullfight. Everyone gets dressed up, because I guess it would be disrespectful to watch an animal get killed for sport in anything less than your Sunday best. Outside the ring, there are vendors selling snacks, drinks, hats, umbrellas, and the all-important cushion (the seats are very uncomfortable). My friends and I daringly decided to sit sans-cushion and made our way to our seats. We got there right when all the toreros (bullfighters) were parading around the ring. There was music playing (there was a live band in the stands) and at one point, they all stopped and all the Spanish people around us aggressively started shushing everyone. I think the toreros were praying. Their outfits are very beautiful, and the beginning ceremony was probably my favorite part. There was a grand sense of decorum and I patted myself on the back for being so open to this cultural experience. Then the bull came in. The bull comes out with something stuck in his back already, I think to make him annoyed. All of the lesser toreros (they don't get to kill the bull, only the big cheese torero gets to do that) have pink capes and they stand around, waving them at the bull, then running behind a wall when the bull comes close. Then a guy comes in on a horse, carrying a lance. The bull runs around some more, at at some point he gets stabbed by the guy on a horse. I felt really bad for the horse, he kept getting knocked into by the bull.

Then more toreros come out with spear things with stripes on them, and the bull gets stabbed again. There is lots of blood. Also the bull looks kind of ridiculous because he various different colored spears sticking out of his back. Then the main torero comes out (the maestro or matador de toros). He wears a fancy gold outfit and has a red cape, just like you are probably picturing. The bull is pretty miserable by this point and really looks like it just wanted to take a nap, but the maestro keeps waving his cape and making him run around. The crows oohs and aahs and says "Olé" a lot, and eventually the maestro stabs the bull. People clap. It might not die immediately, and may have to get stabbed again by other people. It slowly sinks down into a pool of its own blood and falls over and dies. Then horses come out and drag its lifeless body away. Sounds awesome, right? But wait, the fun is not over! There are 5 more bulls to kill! I only could stomach staying for two, then Suzy and I peaced out. 

I don't pretend to actually know anything about bullfighting, all I know is what I saw. And I hated what I saw. Here are my main issues with what went down:

• The bull was in pain. I eat meat, and I know that animals are killed all the time, However, they are not stabbed repeatedly before they die. I don't understand why bull fights are not legally animal torture. 
• The bull does not die right away. Most of the initial stabbings of the bull are intended to both provoke the bull and also to weaken him. The death blow comes later. However, sometimes the final stabbing doesn't even kill him right away and he bleeds out a lot and dies a slow, sad death. You just tortured this poor bull for 20 minutes, can't you at least make sure he has a quick death?
• The bull is not that ferocious: I guess bull fights are supposed to be about man versus nature, but it is in no way a fair fight. Some bulls are more aggressive than others, but the ones we saw were total Ferdinands (if you do not understand this reference, please look it up). They ran around a little bit when the toreros waved their capes, but for the most part they just stood there. The torero could probably have pet them if he wanted to. It was in no way impressive when he killed them, because they did not seem to to pose any real threat.
• Killing animals should not be a spectacle: Meat is delicious. Meat is nutritious. Animals kill other animals all the time, it is part of life. But should we all stand around and clap as an animal is slowly and ceremoniously tortured and killed? Probably not. 

I understand that bull fights are an important cultural tradition, and I accept that I am an outsider looking in and am probably judging this custom unfairly. However, I feel that there is something wrong with this particular tradition, and I know I am not alone in this. Many Spaniards also feel this way, and in fact Catalonia has banned bullfighting (more as a political statement against Spain, but whatever). It is surprising that this tradition has managed to survive this long, and I would not be surprised if I saw it banned in my lifetime.

The Catcalls

Before I came to Spain, I was warned about Spanish men and told they were "a little pushy." During orientation here, the staff told us ladies that we would probably hear "hola guapa" and the likes, and we should just ignore it and tell the guys to leave us alone. In my month here, I have heard my fair share of "guapa"s and whistles, but it did not bother me too much. However, this past week, I have had some different experiences. The night of my birthday, my friends and I were walking down Calle Betis, a street in my neighborhood with a lot of bars. Two of my female friends and I were walking in the front, and the rest of our group was about a block behind us. Three guys started walking behind the three of us, calling out to us in Spanish. When we ignored them, they started talking about how we were probably American and didn't speak Spanish and proceeded to start talking about us in Spanish. Eventually, we turned around and said "Hablamos español" so they knew we understood exactly what they were saying. They tried talking to us some more, and my roommate simply said "No" and started motioning for them to go away. They kept talking, and eventually we walked the other way and met up with our friends.

Later that weekend, my friends and I were sitting in Plaza Nueva at night, and a group of guys walked by, yelling in Spanish "I like the redhead," referring to Suzy's friend who was visiting for the weekend. Suzy starting saying no and telling them to leave, and then they insulted us and walked away. 

Being objectified as a women is pretty much universal, and I have had several experiences with this in the U.S. However, in the U.S., it is usually done from a passing car so it is over quickly or is simply a whistle or a single comment. The incidents here were more drawn out and aggressive, and when we stood up for ourselves, the men did not respect this and insulted us. Everyone says that it is part of the culture, but why is this an accepted part of the culture? Why is this an accepted part of any culture? Am I culturally insensitive for thinking that a lot of men here don't respect women (even more than the US, which is hard to do) and having a problem with this? 

Cultural sensitivity is hard. I don't think I'm doing it right. I know that even though I think something might be morally wrong, my morals are reflective of my culture and don't necessarily translate to a different culture. However, I would feel bad not speaking up when I think something is wrong. Good thing I'm not an anthro major.

I do love Spain though and am having a great time. I promise I will have a more uplifting post next week!